The Independence of Aspen

Of course I had heard of Aspen and despite the fact that it truly is world famous, I didn’t see one sign proclaiming it so.

Almost all the way from Glenwood Springs to Aspen, I and a gaggle of other vehicles all drove at the speed limit, carefully observing all the laws of the road. This sudden observance of the law by all was caused by the local Sheriff, driving in the left lane at exactly the speed limit and not one person dared to overtake in the right lane. Not that I personally wanted to go any faster today – it was a pleasant ride with plenty to look at along the way.

I had seen on the map there was a long and winding road (wasn’t that a song?) that started immediately before I was to reach Aspen called Castle Creek Road that heads almost due south. It wasn’t on my route but I decided to give it a try anyway.

I smiled as I saw this sign....



But wait a minute, did that mean the road was twisty, or suffered from high wind? One would be good, the other not! I didn’t need to have worried for within a minute or so, I knew what message the sign was meant to give. Twisty! Rising slowly, the road starts at 7,900 feet (2410m) near Aspen up to just under 10,000 feet (3000m) before the road runs out 12 miles later. It was a fun ride, shared with no cars but quite a few cyclists whom I take my hat off to – that was a long rising road and their fitness was not in question. I turned around and rode back and at one stage I had a hard job to keep pace with a Kamikaze cyclist who was riding so fast down the mountain that he must have had a really good reason to get there that quickly. I pondered this for a while - a mistress or lunch was my conclusion. It was fascinating to see him lean over into the bends and I was amazed his marrow tyres (US = tires) gave so much grip. Eventually I found a straight piece of road and got passed him, probably only arriving in Aspen just before he did. I didn’t see his mistress, but I did look for somewhere to eat.

I didn’t know what to expect of Aspen. I had stopped on the way at the nearby Snowmass Ski Resort and took an instant dislike to it. The place was not at all welcoming and I couldn’t do as I usually prefer and ride around first to get a feel of the place before parking, as the only option they give you is to park some distance away and get a bus into the centre or park in a multi-storey car park first and then walk. I chose to do neither and decided Snowmass was not for me.

So, I rode into the nearby Aspen hoping it would be the same. I need not have worried for it was a grid of small tree lined streets, with a lot of people around, welcoming shops and restaurants and the best thing of all, loads of dedicated and free motorcycle parking bays. Cars had to pay to park. Smiles. Bobskoot would like this!

I took my camera for a walk and was rewarded with some nice pictures of the centre of the place....





















































I liked Aspen. I had lunch there (a delicious Salmon burger) and afterwards I strolled around the pedestrianised centre. It seemed a happy place with kids playing, people sitting outside and eating and generally it felt very relaxed. I liked this water-feature....













































And I laughed when I saw this really cool chopper styled bicycle with it’s ape hanger bars....



















The next corner I turned I saw this wonderful Chevy Corvette. Drool.....



















I love the front grille....



















I put my camera away and got back on my bike and headed out of Aspen, eagerly anticipating Independence Pass which was just up the road.

I was disappointed.

The road up to the pass looked fantastic on the map. It looked like mile upon mile of sweeping bends rising to 12,000 feet. I could imagine the joy of riding such a road with great views, but it wasn’t like that. The road was very narrow, often just one lane to be shared in both directions and the view was non-existent, spoiled by tightly spaced trees. Sure, it was a good ride, but not the great one I had anticipated.

I did stop at the summit....





















The views looking down were pretty good....







































I did see this couple on their Road King. I laughed at the dog in the bag on the back....





















On the way back down the mountain the other side of the pass, I stopped at Twin Lakes for a picture....



























I stopped for the night in Leadville, a small un-distinguished town that I heard once had 60,000 people living there and In the late 1800s, Leadville was the second most populous city in Colorado, after Denver. At 10,200 feet it is the highest incorporated city in the United States.

Now a shadow of its former grandeur, I did manage to find somewhere to stay and I ate at the only place in town that served food after 6pm.

The hotel is, err, odd. The Delaware
Hotel is a sort of a cross between a hotel and a museum, that sells mainly old furniture and clothes. I walked into the lobby to see row upon row of racks of clothes for sale and I wondered if I had gone into the wrong doorway. After quickly looking around I saw a sign pointing to the well hidden hotel registration desk and checked in. A very unusual place indeed!.....

The hotel sign....



























The lobby....





















An upstairs corridor....





















I did manage to find a great saloon though. Built in 1879, the Silver Dollar Saloon is a real piece of history. It looks as if it has hardly changed over the years.... (except the cars parked outside the fron)....



























Here is the back room....





















The barman told me the mirror behind the bar was still the original, now 131 years old – remarkable!